Question for welders!

Thats actually a really good idea. Thanks man
Here is a pic of my cable crossover and how its bolted together.
IMG_1383-compressed.jpeg

When you shorten the cable put a hard ball on the end before the eye hook. Just drill a hole in a really hard rubber ball. Lacrosse bal would work, but wear pit over time. A nylon block would also work.
IMG_1382-compressed.jpeg
And you don’t need to hook the cable on the side. Just cut it the right length and let the balls do the work
IMG_1386-compressed.jpeg

It will be easy to cut down. The triangular brackets at the top are around 1/4” thick and sandwiched on both sides, use nylon locking nuts.

I have stacked up 300 lbs on it when I was doing rows off the bottom pully. That was a bit much for my cheap machine. I believe I paid $250 for it in 2015
 
The only problem is the cross member isnt 4 sided. Its 2 sided and slides over the top 4 sided piece on the tower. When you take off the cross member this picture is how it looks and the second picture is of the cross member 20261019_140224.jpg20261019_140113.jpg
 
I see how i could attach the left outside pully inside the corner triangle brackets but the right side pully and attaching the cross member would be the tricky part
 
It looks to me on the outside fishplates (made like @Sorbate ‘s) you can shim behind the fish plates against the upright making the inside of the fishplates the same dimension as the outside measurement of the side plates on the crossmember. If more stability is required you can add another bolt all the way thru an inch or two past the outside bolt, kind of landing above the outside pulley.
 
It looks to me on the outside fishplates (made like @Sorbate ‘s) you can shim behind the fish plates against the upright making the inside of the fishplates the same dimension as the outside measurement of the side plates on the crossmember. If more stability is required you can add another bolt all the way thru an inch or two past the outside bolt, kind of landing above the outside pulley.
Awesome thanks brother. Could you possibly post a drawing of what you mean so I can visualize it better?
 
The wsy you wanted to cut and weld it, well just cut it and buy some 2” flat plate steel, then sandwich the square tubing between 2 pieces drill 4 holes and bolt it.

Cut the rods at the top.

As long as you have the square tubing resting on each other, can’t see why that wouldn’t be more than strong enough. It’s only gotta hold 150lbs
 
Here is a pic of my cable crossover and how its bolted together.
View attachment 118069

When you shorten the cable put a hard ball on the end before the eye hook. Just drill a hole in a really hard rubber ball. Lacrosse bal would work, but wear pit over time. A nylon block would also work.
View attachment 118068
And you don’t need to hook the cable on the side. Just cut it the right length and let the balls do the work
View attachment 118070

It will be easy to cut down. The triangular brackets at the top are around 1/4” thick and sandwiched on both sides, use nylon locking nuts.

I have stacked up 300 lbs on it when I was doing rows off the bottom pully. That was a bit much for my cheap machine. I believe I paid $250 for it in 2015
Does yours have just one cable running through all the pullys and crimped ends for attachments? Its not anchored anywhere and the crimping just holds through all the force? For example if your doing 200lb lat pulldowns from the top pully the bottom pully doesnt have to be anchored and it holds on just fine with the metal eyelet, stop sleeve and cable ball stopper?
 
Does yours have just one cable running through all the pullys and crimped ends for attachments? Its not anchored anywhere and the crimping just holds through all the force? For example if your doing 200lb lat pulldowns from the top pully the bottom pully doesnt have to be anchored and it holds on just fine with the metal eyelet, stop sleeve and cable ball stopper?
Yep one cable ad the crimping holds all the force. No,the bottom pulley does not need to be anchored. The balls before the anchor and eye hook holds back the load against the stop sleeve. Yep just fine with the eyelet, stop sleeve and ball. You need a hard rubber or nylon ball though.

I had to cut mine down to fit in my old houses basement and I shortened the cable myself.

I never really went past 200 lbs consistently with this setup. But your stack is only 150, so it will hold no issues.
 
couple of questions about shit that doesn't really matter now that the tech stuff seems solved if u don't mind cause im just stupidly curious by nature. I'm jelly, I wish this was my project lol

What's the story on who/how aquired?
Did you pay for this ? $?
r the pics from the old location?
RU gonna go full restoration on this? total disassembly, paint, lube etc
i think I saw nylon looking wheels? def might need a look and an upgrade for example
 
couple of questions about shit that doesn't really matter now that the tech stuff seems solved if u don't mind cause im just stupidly curious by nature. I'm jelly, I wish this was my project lol

What's the story on who/how aquired?
Did you pay for this ? $?
r the pics from the old location?
RU gonna go full restoration on this? total disassembly, paint, lube etc
i think I saw nylon looking wheels? def might need a look and an upgrade for example
I was waiting for this. I know when I first saw it I could barely stop myself from drooling i figured some people on here would like it. Not because its state of the art but because it was a rare hidden gem caked in sand and stone lol. It was an old model that was kept for spare parts and not surprisingly the gym that upgraded had no need for old parts off an entirely different brand machine. Im friends with the gym owner and just asked if he was going to scrap it id gladly take it. He said sure so it was free. It is missing a couple bolts and 1 pully but thats nothing. Im not going to fully restore it just polish the sliding bars for the plates snd cut it shorter to fit into my badement. What do you think itd be worth in its current condition?
 
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